My trip to Hawaii definitely turned into something I didn't quite expect. This was not a trip with the specific intention of quality dining, instead I dove into the environment I was blessed to visit. I did however have to eat as a result of all the physical activity, and the place that became a good friend during this trip was the Kailua-Kona farmers market. Let's just say I was impressed. The sheer abundance was incredible. When we see papayas in the grocery store, there are maybe like what? 5 or 6. Here there were literally hundreds, of many different varieties. The sweet strawberry papaya was decidedly my favorite, but the real showstopper were the avocados.
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| Went ahead and got my thumb in there for comparison |
Look upon them, behold their greatness. These are the largest avocados I've ever seen. I mean, cantaloupe sized avocados, I was in heaven. One could easily feed a family of 4 with one. I did eat a whole one by myself later in the week, and it was a challenge. Why, you may ask? couldn't take it on the plane, oh well.
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| These fries are God, treat them as such |
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| papayas at farmers market |
After being totally dazzled by the farmers market I was craving the product of these fruits. I wanted local, and I wanted it right then. On the way home from the gorgeous Pololu valley is the town of Hawi pop.938. In that town is Bamboo Restaurant. This place came highly recommended by locals, and it did not disappoint. We were famished after hiking up a steep cliff in the rain. We ordered quickly as they were about to close up. We got 2 local drafts from Kona brewing Co. ( don't worry, you'll be hearing all about that), the Vietnamese toss salad, a kalua pork sandwich, and I got the Bamboo burger. The greens for the salad were grown less than a mile away. They tasted of the soil. Volcanic soils make great flavor, I've found. The minerality was deep and complex. It was served with tempura fried tofu, rice noodles, tomatoes and a delightful chili vinaigrette, that was sweet and mild. The Asian influences in this dish made it somehow more distinctly Hawaiian than other meals had eaten on the island. This was no loco moco, and that was certain. The pork sandwich was what one would expect, and incredibly flavorful. My burger was perfect and cooked exactly how I had asked. This is a big deal for me. When I am asked how I would like something cooked, I expect it to be cooked that way when it gets to my table. It goes for eggs, steaks, burgers, and spice level if we're doing Thai. That was something I found to be quite impressive. Their waffle criss cut fries were so amazing. Crispy slightly spiced, they reminded me a lot of 3am binges on an extra large Jack in a box curly fry. I hate to make that comparison, but there is no other way to describe it.These were way better though. Then each sandwich had a side of green papaya coleslaw. It's one of those things you see everywhere. It's delicious, I don't even know why all slaws are not this way. Mainly the availability of papayas, but you catch my drift. If this could be everywhere it would.
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| Local greens, too! |
Kona brewing was a pretty awesome experience. That's an understatement. They really have set the bar a little higher when it comes to brewery food. I like breweries and craft beers, and let's face it, here in dago there is a heavy presence of these sort of eateries. I eat pub food a lot more than I should, but the pizzas at Kona brewing really reflected the island spirit. I had a half wild mushroom and half kohala pizza. The wild mushroom was delicious, garlicky, and brimming with tons of what I believe were locally sourced mushrooms. The Kohala half of the pizza contained Parmesan sausage, onions, whole garlic cloves and a sprinkling of mac nuts that made a crunch that was truly satisfying. Also I am quite pleased to say that I have now had every beer Kona brewing co. makes. My favorite would have to be a toss up between the Lava man Red, and the Koko brown ale. The Koko is a coconut infused brown that is so good it should be poured over ice cream and served as dessert. the Lavaman is just a damn tasty red, which is often hard to find. I also tried the big wave golden, which was great in the warm tropic temperatures.
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| the sampler was a delight |
I also explored a couple plantations while I was here. Most notably Greenwell farms, which produces delicious Kona coffee. Their chocolate macadamia puts Lion kona to shame, and they also have a blended roast called Chameleon. Not kidding, but this coffee changes its flavor and texture as you drink it. It was their priciest blend, so I got myself some the the medium roast, which is what you generally think of when you think of kona coffee. It's easy drinking and velvety smooth.
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| Rugged and cute farmhands here |
The Hamakua Macadamia nut company was also quite a treat. Their samples were divine. They had everything from honey roasted to spam flavored mac nuts ( yes they taste just like spam). Their wasabi macs were a treat as well. I escaped this macadamia vortex with a bag of kona coffee glazed mac nuts that are so good I'm scared to open the bag for fear that I wont be able to stop. Everyone there is super friendly and they have a window into the Roastery so you can watch the macalumpas
Another joy I found was the malasada. These donut like pastries of Portuguese origin are fairly popular Sunday food. The ones I enjoyed were from the Panalu'u bread company, famous for their sweet bread.i had guava and frosted lilikoi ( that's passionfruit for those unfamiliar) and they were good. The sweet bread was incredible as well, also something that is very Portuguese.
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| This is Zach. He's awesome. |
I also explored the awa' root and the traditional tea made from it known as Kava. Kanaka Kava is a small Kava bar in the main shopping area of kailua-Kona. It is owned and operated by Zachary Gibson and his wife. The Kava is served from a traditional kava bowl, and ladled into coconut cups that are quite a portion. For 5 dollars you get a giant amount of kava compared to what you get here on the mainland. I've seen a similar portion for twice as much here in San Diego. This was different than any kava experience I had ever had before. I've never felt better, or more relaxed than that moment when I knocked back the last sip of kava from my coconut. Zach is an awesome host, and even provided us with some fresh pineapple to help with the muddy, chalky taste of the kava, for free. This definitely was not the mainland anymore. This highly cultural and stimulating experience did not prepare me for what happened next.
Now let's get into the meat. Yes, I ate a ridiculous amount of kalua pork, and i did have the bad fortune to go to a luau. Never again friends, never again. The food was good, not especially good though. The whole pig they dug up for our amusement was in hotel pans. that's not what I came to see kids. this tragic disappointment led to a few more Mai tais at the open bar. Then the show started and well, let's just say it wasn't very culturally accurate, or sensitive. People were laughing at the traditional dances of peoples that no longer exist. This made me so angry I started to cry. So, the whole experience felt quite cheap, and it made me feel bad for attending.
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| Mai tai at Don's Mai tai bar |
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| traditional kava service device |
This however, is Hawaii for some people. To them the leis are plastic and are great lead ins for sex jokes. The food is not to be consumed. The seek out the chains that they know well from their travels. You know what I mean, hard rock, or yard house, or moose mcgillicuttys. they call that Hawaiian. I know that tourism is no longer a choice for Hawaii. it has become something they must promote in order to survive, but tourism does not have to be cheap and plastic. It can be genuine, and the traveller can be respectful. A place is not a restaurant. It was not put there for the purpose of your entertainment. You are a guest in someones home and should act with the same grace and poise you would at your grandmother's home. To mock and laugh at the cultures of others in their land is unacceptable. So, I found refuge in the forest, and the waterfalls, the glow of Kilauea and the local products that keep the natives in Hawaii and bring new citizens to Hawaii. it is the beauty of the island that i most love, and the shining glory of their local economies that are growing. My investigation of the local foods of the island really showed me the potential Hawaii has as a locavorist state, and I can't wait to see where they head. The movement has been founded.
